For the record, this concludes (for now)
like this:

Got the work done by Dave Jeffrey at Auto Shop on Haas street in Toronto. I
mention the name of the shop because I felt that Dave knew the work very
well.  Talked like Haynes, grumpy like Condelli — must be an experienced
and learn’ed Vanagon mechanic.
New:
-flywheel seal
-gearbox oring
-clutch kit
-machines flywheel
-new slave cylinder (he broke it off during disassembly cuz the nut was
seized)
-robusticized my oil pressure gauge system by using brake line to move the
Condelli “TEE” assembly to above the engine. (I know, my oil pressure will
be pessimistic by a half psi.  No biggie. )
-purged brake lines (back two only; fittings at the front were seized)
-new (hole-free) tail pipe.

14.25 hours labour.

I think that was about it.

Comments?

I still don’t have a Dennis Haynes hitch, but there is always next year.

Cheers,
Gabby

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 2:51 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> The flywheel seal leaking is a very common problem. Usually it is the
> result of something being amiss. If you know there is no other work needed
> but the "clutch job" the usual approach is to remove the transmission. Once
> the clutch-flywheel is removed you need to try to determine what went
> wrong. If the seal is heat damaged you either overheated the clutch or the
> engine oil-crankcase. If the seal is pushed out than there is too much
> pressure building up behind the seal. This is a common problem in rebuilt
> engines or engines with worn bearings or cases. There are two slots, one
> above and below the bearing to allow the oil from the bearing to drain back
> into the case. For rebuilds it is common for these slots to be partially
> blocked by sealant. Otherwise there is simply too much oil that cannot
> drain back fast enough. When I do overhauls or have a repeat seal failure I
> drill a 3/16 hole about 7"clock under the bearing to drain out the space
> behind the seal. Find a picture of the main bearing area of a Beetle Type 1
> motor and you will see the approach. There is also an o-ring inside the
> flywheel hub that seals to the crankshaft. Other possibilities for a leak
> include the camshaft end plug and the case cracked, common behind cylinder
> three.
>
> If the transmission is the leaker the usual causes are overfilling or
> overheating of the transmission, blocked vent hole in front, or worn input
> shaft, pilot bearing, or the roller bearing on the main shaft.
>
> As for cost expect a shop to charge five to six hours labor if nothing
> else found.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> Gabriel Hourtouat
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 10:00 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Work Estimate -- Oil Leak Repairs
>
> What is the reality of this?  I have an oil leak that I would like to have
> repaired.  What should I expect to be the level of effort and cost?
>
> The oil leaks onto the front plate that supports the exhaust system (seems
> to be labeled Bentley, page 26.9) -Where is that coming from most likely?
> -What will it take to repair it?
>
> Leaks about 2 tbs of oil into a boot tray after the van comes to a stop.
> Elsewhere in Bentley I think I saw that the clutch bell has an oil seal
> for the main shaft?  Is this the culprit?  Or is it leaking passed the
> clutch housing gasket?
>
> It seems to be engine oil; so I am confused: Is the clutch housing full of
> engine oil???
>
> 86 wbx
> gabby
>