Front turn signal housings are different too, though I do not believe they have to be changed for US versions. 

On Jun 26, 2013, at 11:08 AM, Tom Buese wrote:

> The Euro version of the Vanagon, in this case a Transporter, has several
> different things than a US Spec model- I am not an expert on these by any
> means, but Jeff Schwaia, who imports them probably is, & as I understand
> them Euro models have E-4 headlights w/ washers, no emergency flasher
> switch, KPH instead of MPH, no rear side light reflectors, no concave
> passenger side rearview mirror, but a flat mirror, possibly a different
> chipped 2.1 engine (DJ112), etc. All of these things must be changed to US
> Spec, except the engine, to be legal in the US, IIRC.
> 
> Dang, that is kinda what I was fearing.  Then of course the volks in
> Scandinavia probably don't worry to much about too much heat, sorta like us
> in Maine, except it was 89 yesterday! I did drive it from CA to Maine w/
> the window down to keep it comfy inside-good thing the weather was mild in
> late April, early May.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mr. BZ
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 9:52 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>> At 07:09 PM 6/25/2013, Tom Buese wrote:
>> 
>>> Dang if I can figure out the heater controls on my syncro doka!  Yes, I
>>> 
>> 
>> This is a bit presumptuous since I've never seen a '90 Euro-spec
>> Doka...but anyway on the regular ones:
>> 
>> The top lever controls airflow to the windshield.  Right is more.
>> 
>> The second lever controls air temperature (including the side vents
>> on later ones).  Right is hotter.
>> 
>> The third lever controls airflow to your feet.  Right is less.
>> 
>> (And the fourth lever controls unheated airflow to the rear cabin roof
>> vents.)
>> 
>> There isn't any control on air into the system, only on air leaving it.
>> 
>> So if you don't want heat, second lever all the way left.  If that
>> doesn't shut off the heat you can replace the heat valve or install a
>> shutoff valve in the line or pinch the line shut with something that
>> doesn't injure it.  A pair of small wooden blocks with edges rounded
>> over, clearance holes in one side and pilot holes in the other,
>> screwed down over the hose would do it.  Just remember that the space
>> between the screws has to accommodate the hose width when it's pinched
>> flat.
>> 
>> Yrs,
>> d
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Tom Buese